the essentials
Bringing home a new rabbit is full of all of the delights you can imagine, however there are some important things to know before you decide to welcome one into your house.
I don't allow my rabbits to leave until they are at least 8 weeks old. At around 8-12 weeks old, the babies will be around 4-6 pounds, and about the size of a football! It's very important to let your rabbit settle into it's new surroundings for it's first day. Immense stress can induce illness, loss of appetite, or dehydration. After this first day, I highly encourage you to be as touchy as you can! Pick him up, rub him, get him used to your presence. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see your bunny eating or drinking on it’s first day home! It just means he’s a tad stressed and needs time to figure out his new home. If he continues to not touch his food or water after 3 days, talk to your veterinarian. Avoid introducing other pets such as dogs, cats, or even other rabbits for at least 3 days. This will give him the chance to acclimate to one thing at a time. Please don't introduce your new rabbit to another one right away! It's best to essentially "quarantine" your rabbit so that he can settle in, and so that you can watch him to make sure he doesn't express illness which could possibly contaminate your other rabbit. |
dietI spike my rabbits' waters with apple cider vinegar for overall gut health. Apple cider vinegar also aids in combating illness, and helps move the digestive tract along to prevent blockages. It can also reduce inflammation, provide your rabbit with minerals, and so much more! I highly encourage rabbit owners to add about 1/2 a tablespoon to your rabbit's water bottle every time you fill it.
Bar Ale Rabbit Pellets is the feed I use for my rabbits. It is a pelleted “full-feed” meaning that it’s jam-packed with everything a rabbit needs! I also feed a mixture of grass hays such as timothy, orchard, or oat hay. Hay allows the rabbit to chew (and not be bored!), file their teeth down, and keep their gut moving along properly. I also feed my rabbits cilantro, radish tops, celery, basil, mint, oregano, and parsley with the occasional bell pepper. Young rabbits should be on a free-feed (unlimited access to feed) of pellets and hay. Veggies & TreatsPlease refrain from feeding a full serving of fruits or veggies until your rabbit is at least 3 months old. Until then, an occasional veggie/herb snack is okay, such as 1 slice of bell pepper, or small handful of cilantro. About 1 cup of veggies or herbs every day (when the rabbit is old enough) or every other day will suffice for optimal growth and health. While they don't need this supplement if you're feeding a full feed, veggies and herbs can improve health and provide adequate vitamins and minerals if not fed too often.
Fruit should be given as a treat, not on a daily basis. Please avoid "treats" that aren't fruit, veggies, or herbs, and watch for diarrhea. |
parasite treatment & the vet
Rabbits generally don't need de-wormer or parasite treatments unless there is suspicion of a parasitic problem, or there is knowledge of a known outbreak in your area. Many rabbitries practice strict prevention policies, however we de-worm once at 8 weeks old, and once every 3 months.
It’s a good idea to educate yourself on the common rabbit illnesses such as:
While there are many home remedies to common illnesses, such as weepy eye , hutch burn, or fleas/mites, know that it's always a good idea to bring your rabbit for a check-up if your rabbit's condition is prolonged or worsens!
It’s a good idea to educate yourself on the common rabbit illnesses such as:
- Ear mites
- Fleas/ticks
- Snuffles
- Heat stroke
- Wry neck (not incredibly common, but if it happens, you’ll know what it is)
- Hutch burn
- Sore hocks
- Conjunctivitis (weepy eye is a symptom of this)
- Moon eye
While there are many home remedies to common illnesses, such as weepy eye , hutch burn, or fleas/mites, know that it's always a good idea to bring your rabbit for a check-up if your rabbit's condition is prolonged or worsens!
spay and neuter
Should I spay or neuter my rabbit? This is a question I typically get from most of my buyers. Truth is, it's a complicated question, and various rabbit breeders/owners will probably give different responses.
I would say no, don't spay and neuter IF your rabbit is going to be a solo-bunny in the household.
If later on in this rabbit's life, the rabbit:
If the rabbit is NOT the only rabbit in the household, and is NOT the same gender as your current rabbit, I would reccomend either spay/neuter OR keep them in separate living spaces.
Spay and neuter is a procedure that usually costs upwards of $300. From a vet not specialized in small animals, it might be more. This procedure is very tough on rabbits because it requires the rabbit to undergo anesthesia, and is an intense procedure that requires the veterinarian to cut open the rabbit. Recovery means pain medications, limited movement, and a vigilant eye to make sure the wound does not reopen. However risky this may seem, being responsible for up to 10 unwanted babies is even riskier.
I would say no, don't spay and neuter IF your rabbit is going to be a solo-bunny in the household.
If later on in this rabbit's life, the rabbit:
- Is aggressive (lunging, biting)
- Is spraying
- Is or has experienced a reproductive ailment (i.e ovarian cancer )
If the rabbit is NOT the only rabbit in the household, and is NOT the same gender as your current rabbit, I would reccomend either spay/neuter OR keep them in separate living spaces.
Spay and neuter is a procedure that usually costs upwards of $300. From a vet not specialized in small animals, it might be more. This procedure is very tough on rabbits because it requires the rabbit to undergo anesthesia, and is an intense procedure that requires the veterinarian to cut open the rabbit. Recovery means pain medications, limited movement, and a vigilant eye to make sure the wound does not reopen. However risky this may seem, being responsible for up to 10 unwanted babies is even riskier.